Magical Mendocino County

We all need more Mendocino

The long and winding road to Mendocino County isn’t all that long. Roaming some of California’s most pastoral back roads, past rustic farmlands and small towns, Mendocino only seems far away. That’s half the allure. The other half is its untamed and undisturbed beauty. The landscapes, the views, the breathtaking coastline; Mendocino is more of what we need and everything that makes for a tranquil and splendid retreat.

The getaway begins along scenic byways that provide spectacular distractions. The favorite road less traveled (especially from Sacramento or Napa) would be the length of Highway 128. Meander up the Napa Valley, past endless vineyards and fields, from Cloverdale to the redwood giants of Navarro, the road twists and turns. Take it slow and enjoy every moment. After all, you’re heading to the place where “back in the day” people went to escape and drop out. Those same adventurers fashioned an eclectic, art-centric, and natural lifestyle that many of us seek. Long ago, Mendocino County embraced its organic roots, and so will you.

Pace yourself. There’s so much to see, eat, and drink! Highway 128 winds through bucolic Anderson Valley. A small but mighty American Viticulture Area (AVA), it reads like a who’s who of wineries: Goldeneye, Roederer, Scharffenberger, Husch, and Navarro (two of the county’s eco-friendly wineries); all pretty heady stuff and just a few of the outstanding wineries in the valley.  The annual Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival is held in June.

Passing through the counter-cultural town of Boonville, stop at the Mosswood Market for the first of many culinary pleasures. Over and over, you will hear the refrain, “handmade, homemade, freshly made, and locally made.” Mendocino County has prioritized a locavore lifestyle for decades, and aren’t you glad? Delicious empanadas, scones, and pastries are the perfect start to any Mendocino morning.

With so many prospects to enjoy, don’t miss a night at the Boonville Hotel & Restaurant.  With an array of rooms in the two-story hotel, or enjoy the quiet of eclectic cottages and three wonderfully funky refabricated “road houses,” you will melt into the hush of the manicured gardens. Each room upstairs, or nestled in the courtyard garden and bucolic grounds, provides a noteworthy experience. Stays include a delicious breakfast in the hotel’s main dining area. Located on Main Street (Highway 128) downtown, the hotel is within walking distance of numerous epicurean delights. Insider tip: Ask about rooms with outdoor bathtubs and showers. They are in high demand.
Bee Hunter Wintery & Tasting Room, focused on sourcing grapes from sustainable, organic, and biodynamic vineyards across Mendocino and Sonoma counties, produces small-batch award-winning wines. Dining options won’t leave you wanting. The hotel gave birth to Offspring @ the Farrer Building, a hop, skip, and a jump across Highway 128. Wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and starters were more than memorable. The Winter Green Salad was extraordinary – a good salad is a thing of beauty!

Once you reach Highway 1, you will be swept away by rugged headlands, vast expanses of Mendocino Coast, crashing waves, blue skies, and a sense of freedom. Inhale deeply. Some of California’s most remarkable state parks – 22 to be exact – provide extraordinary opportunities to relax and unwind. Ocean and river beaches, redwoods, waterfalls, sand dunes, grasslands, and a historic lighthouse are all part of Mendocino’s magic.

Viewed from across the headlands, or up close and personal, the tiny Village of Mendocino is postcard-perfect. Its Victorian splendor is frozen in time, but fantastically evolved. Happily, we found our way to the Agate Cove Bed & Breakfast Inn, a short drive, walk, or bike ride from the Village. A dozen luxurious cottages are all bright and offer views of the gardens, beach, and Mendocino Headlands. Without hesitation, we chose the Crystal cottage with an unobstructed view of the ocean and Headlands from its 35-foot deck and the king bed. Lodging includes a full breakfast buffet, featuring house-made granola and bread, made-to-order pancakes, and more. Breakfast includes that same ocean view.

Exploring the local retail outlets and many dining options filled our days. Since 1988, Out of this World Optics has had a local and worldwide following. Something for everyone and all ages:  toys, games, puzzles, books, and a huge selection of spotting scopes, binoculars, and telescopes.   Tucked away in a historic water tower,  Slug Sister Vintage is a newcomer to the Village. A family affair – two sisters and their mother – is involved with the well-packed shop. Vintage clothing enthusiasts will discover assorted styles and eras. Handmade scented candles under the Slug Sister Creative label are an easy takeaway. Mendocino Country Store sources local and regional crafts. Hidden behind all the eclectic artisan items is a wine bar and wine shop at Mendo Vino. So unexpected! Fashions, art galleries, home décor, and more.
So, back to the culinary side of Mendocino, you won’t ever leave hungry. Adult-friendly Patterson’s Pub, has a 21-and-over policy. With 26 beers on tap and a full bar, we enjoyed libations and ample plates of pub fare. Another brunch, lunch, and dinner option is Flow Restaurant & Lounge, which offers breathtaking ocean views to pair with your meal. I devoured my Apple Salad, which featured local Apples, candied walnuts, dried cranberries, Point Reyes Blue Cheese, red onions, arugula, and apple Dijon dressing. Yes, memorable! Shared appetizers were filling. Steamed clams with garlic, cherry tomatoes, oregano, white wine, and Calabria chili butter, with toasted ciabatta and a side of pan-seared blistered shishito peppers,  with aioli and Maldon salt.

For a quick lunch, the Harvest Market at Mendosa’s has grab-and-go sandwiches and an amazing deli. Chips, beverages, and desserts create an ideal picnic. We enjoyed a quiet lunch on our deck at the Agate Cove Inn.

In Fort Bragg, feed your garden spirit with a visit to the 47-acre Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, the only public garden that sits directly on the Pacific Ocean. The many gardens – perennial, Mediterranean, heather, dahlia, vegetable, rhododendrons – flourish in the ocean air. More than 400 dahlias put on a stunning display from July through August. As if the gardens weren’t enough, more than 150 bird species and bluff-top whale watching are reasons to stop by.

There’s so much more to remember. The ebb and flow of the Pacific tides, the gentle cooing of a mourning dove, and a small circle of forget-me-nots, who could forget Mendocino?

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