The vista defies imagination as you round Conway Summit and gaze down the length of the Long Valley.  The caldera is framed on the west by the Glass Mountain Range and on the east by the Sierra Nevada.  Ancient Mono Lake, sapphire gem, glitters up and reflects billowy clouds that often adorn an azure sky.  Her alien tufas are sentinels to the past.  Any sane person should be rocked at their very core.

The spine of California, this view is like no other. Carved and uplifted, the granite mountains shoot from the ground.  None of those pesky forests to block your view shed.  Impressive heights include some rabidly sought-after “fourteeners,” but plentiful 10,000- to 13,000-foot peaks take your breath away and challenge seasoned climbers.  From sunrise to sunset and season to season, the colors and shadows are an ever-changing portrait where Ansel Adams’ “range of light” is clearly defined.

At the bottom of the summit, Highway 395 stretches before you with promises of sanctuary from traffic and crowds.  There are few manmade roadside distractions.  Just miles and miles of fluctuating topography from pine forests to wetland pastures! Defining features include the Mono Craters and views of the Minarets – the backside of Yosemite.

With views above Mono Lake, the enclave of Lee Vining offers a variety of lodging and dining options for visitors to the Eastern Sierra and Yosemite National Park.

I love, love, love El Mono Motel & Latte Da Coffee Cafe in Lee Vining and have lodged and dined here more than once. The cafe is fabulous; cheerful, welcoming, and a great place to hang out. Clearly, the garden courtyard, front porch with willow chairs, and views of the Eastern Sierra sky keep guests coming back and happy!  Treat yourself to some of the best coffee on California’s East Side, made with love, homemade baked goods, and bodacious sandwiches on Latte Da focaccia.

When it comes to hospitality, price, and location, the motel rates five stars.  El Mono is hugely popular with Europeans, especially Germans, and most people heading to or from Yosemite and hikes in the nearby high country. The owner, Kelly Cashman, has been in charge since 1995. The motel underwent some updates and renovations in the past few years. The rooms are bright and well-appointed with private and shared baths.

The Mono Lake Committee bookstore and visitor center is literally across the street. The right turn up Highway 120/Tioga Pass to Yosemite (closed in the winter) is a mile south on 395. El Mono — close to all of the splendor and great outdoors that is the Eastern Sierra — is just miles away from the Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve and the Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area.  A few miles to the south, Obsidian Dome, a mile-long, 300-foot-high mound of glass, pays homage to the region’s volcanic spirit. This is a must-see. Proceed with caution if climbing the glass.

Above it all, Mammoth Mountain emerges. Exit the open spaces for the wilds of Mammoth Lakes.  Huge. Immense. Epic. Vast. California’s biggest mountain for winter sports – all of the adjectives apply.  Mammoth also has colossal year-round recreational delights from mountain biking and hiking to canoeing and kayaking. Mammoth’s Sierra Star Gold Course, 8,000 feet above sea level, is the highest-elevation 18-hole championship course in California.  (Further south, the Owens River Gorge and the Buttermilks in Bishop attract rock climbers from around the world.)

Back on the open road and over the 7,000-foot Sherwin Summit, it’s a slow glide into Inyo County and Bishop, where more of my favorite East Side lodging, food, open spaces, and night skies hold me close in their hearts.

Arriving in Bishop, there are two landmark eateries at the top of everyone’s list. Just before turning the corner onto Main Street, you’ll pass Mahogany Meats, a Bishop legacy since 1922. Smoked meats, deli sandwiches, and more than two dozen flavors of jerky, including beef, turkey, bison, wild boar, and fish, are the reason for their loyal following by locals and out-of-towners.

Erick Schat’s Bakkerÿ, on Main Street, is another mouthwatering Bishop destination.  Home of Original Sheepherder Bread® since 1938, and a wide array of home-baked breads and pastries, I weep at the very thought of breakfast, lunch, or dinner. My favorite fresh roasted turkey sandwich is an absolute must!

Another Bishop favorite, Pupfish Café, inside Spellbinder Books, offers breakfast and lunch and a large menu of hot and cold beverages. Mountain Rambler Brewery pours award-winning beers and serves up a made-from-scratch menu of salads, sandwiches, pizza, and desserts.

In 2024, the Creekside Inn was rebranded as the Wayfinder Hotel. Updated with a new lounge, lobby, and room designs, the hotel provides a quiet respite for East Side visitors and outdoor enthusiasts. Continue to choose a creekside room, and Bishop Creek will lull you to sleep. Complimentary breakfast is included.

Wildflowers generally peak March through early June; however, an abundant snowpack will extend the Sierra Nevada wildflower season into the summer months. For late spring through summer viewing, head to higher elevations. Fish Slough and Lake Sabrina in Bishop are popular viewing areas in the Eastern Sierra.

Last but not least:  Check seasonal flights at the Eastern Sierra Regional Airport in Bishop to and from San Francisco and Denver.  Hidden away in the terminal is another wonderful dining experience called Thai Thai.  Explore the wonders of the Bishop Creek Basin Lakes and, on any night, drive into the darkness to see starry skies and full moons rise over the mountains. One more, Keough Hot Springs the largest hot springs pool in the Eastern Sierra – take the plunge!